ikoiko.com
every swingin' lick in town

a subterranean guide to New Orleans music

Out The Box: Got To Get Over Da Hump! Wednesdays Are Wicked Fun!

by Eulalie Echo

"Got to get over da hump, I got ta get over da hump!" ~ George Clinton

I love Wednesdays because it’s so close to Thursday which means the weekend is coming soon. I just can’t resist going out on a Wednesday night in New Orleans; for most of us who slave during daylight hours it’s an assertion: "I can handle it, I am tough" (especially if you’ve taken my advice on what to do on Tuesday nights!).

If your taste is hot jazz, as usual I am pleased to report that you have some nice choices to sample or even make a whole meal of.

First stop, The Little People’s Place. This little joint is so hip you just won’t believe it. Immortalized in a song by Treme resident funk outfit "All That," it might have been the first club in a string of latter day hot spots that were harassed by gentrifyin’ interlopers. I could type til I’m blue in the face and still not be able to vent my anger about these jazzy holes in the wall being subjected to financially draining and often fatal court appearances and entertainment taxes, but I’ll let "All That"’s on~the~one tune, "The Little People’s Place" give you the lowdown:

It’s a shame (TRUTH!)
And a big disgrace
The way they went and messed over
The Little People’s Place
Just a family owned neighborhood club
Tryin’ to play a little music
So man, what’s up?
With all the zonin’ and the groanin’ and the ordinance
Bringin’ about the circumstance
Whereby to listen to jazz and dance is illegal
Which was what they was implyin’
Those of them who be gentrifyin’
And denyin’
Those of us who was just tryin’
To play a little music with a New Orleans taste
At a Treme club they call The Little People’s Place

Lundi Gras Night 1992
Looking back it’s hard to believe yeah, but it’s all true
With all the crime and the thievin’ goin’ round the town
They send five squad cars to go and shut down
My band ~ Damn!
What’s the plan?
To tell you the truth man
I don’t understand
How you can turn up a jukebox real loud
But acoustic instruments are just not allowed
For a musical city we ought to be proud of any of us
Who have had success
Despite the b.s., duress and stress
The music still springs out the pavement cracks like a weed:
Stretches into the street and starts to form a seed
That’s when the fat bureaucrat feels the need
To impede and let the paper trail read
But we waded through crap
Though it’s up to our waist
So we could hear us some music at The Little People’s Place

(Lyrics by DJ Davis Rogan)

Yeah!! The Little People’s Place, located at 1226 Barracks Street has once again been thriving for some time now although the place was sorely missed for what seemed like ages. Owned by trumpeter Kermit Ruffins' tiny mother~in~law and equally tiny aunties~in~law (thus the name), it naturally hosts Kermit’s Barbecue Swingers one night a week ~ Wednesdays! This is a much more intimate setting than probably any other club downtown that features live music: It’s so teensy that the joint actually bulges when thirty people plus a dozen or so musicians are inside. Outside, Kermit is usually cookin’ up barbecue chicken or the bar might serve up some gumbo that he’s been stewing and stirring all day. But you came to hear music and from the blare of the soulfully stocked jukebox to the bursts of joy that come from Kermit’s trumpet you’ll hear some of the best the city has to offer. Jazz musicians love the atmosphere here (most of them grew up with the bar) so it’s always a feels~like~home stopping point for them ~ and thankfully they usually have their instruments in tow (if not, someone’s always happy to loan them theirs for a tune or two).

The shows start around 8 and conclude around 10 (early shut down due to previously described ordinances). Drinks are cheap at The Little People’s Place and they only go up a quarter once the music begins. There may be a nominal cover charge of $3. Pay it! You get free food (but don’t be a pig!), more atmosphere than you can possibly comprehend and, best of all, authentic New Orleans hot jazz in the same type of atmosphere it was born in. Long live The Little People’s Place and all the other great little clubs in the Treme past and present who have fought the good fight to keep Jazz alive in Treme ~ They call New Orleans the Birthplace of Jazz ~ Treme, people, is the Womb... I’ll let "All That" conclude:

Now all that went down in the way back when
But I still got ta tell ya the tale my friend
Because we can’t relax or even pretend
That the same thing isn’t goin’ down
In another little club in the back of town
Watch yer back, fight the power, keep the music alive
If we stay strong then we will thrive
We can’t let that kind of vibe go to waste
We got ta keep the music rollin’ at The Little People’s Place!

[R.I.P. Trombone Shorty’s & Treme Music Hall]

After Kermit’s show has ended and you feel all warm and loved inside, there’s still more to do and see. It takes less than five minutes to drive on over to Frenchmen and Chartres Streets where Café Brasil hosts the New Birth Brass Band every Wednesday night beginning around 10:30.

Coming off the heels of their debut CD "D~Boy," (NYNO Records) the New Birth is a swinging, funky ~ but still traditional ~ brass ensemble that features a revolving front line of seasoned street musicians. On any given night you will probably see Keith "Wolf" Anderson and his monkey~in~the~zoo trombone antics; trumpet maverick Derrick "Kabookie" Shezbie (who released a stellar CD with Quincy Jones’ Qwest label entitled "Spodie’s Back"; both the dimunitive Kabookie and Wolf are ReBirth Brass Band alumni); and of course leading the ensemble is the charismatic James "Li’l 12" Andrews. (Also making frequent appearances on trombone is Gregory "Coon" Veals, a rasta~topped trombonist from the Li’l Rascals who is the perfect foil for Wolf, and saxophonist supreme Roderick Paulin, a New Orleans Public Schools educator who hails from the highly esteemed Paulin jazz family).

But let’s talk about that back line: We’ve got one of the most powerful rhythm trios in the city here: Tanio Hingle on a rock hard bass drum beat, Kerwin James on tuba (who is the younger brother of sousaphone powerhouse Phil "Tuba Love" Frazier of the ReBirth) and Kerry "Fat Man" Hunter on a strong and assured snare drum and cymbal. These guys are as funky as you can get outside ReBirth but look out! They still have a little catching up to do but they truly lead the jazzy lives of the New Orleans mean streets. That funk just comes up out the street and permeates the souls of their shoes and they will rock you with their rhythm.

Okay, back to the front man of New Birth, James Andrews. James has been an influential figure in his own 6th ward neighborhood since birth. His grandfather is the late great R&B crooner Jesse "Mr. Ooh~Poo~Pah~Doo" Hill and he also has legendary Lastie blood coursing through his veins. He was probably born with a trumpet in his mouth ~ in fact, his youngest brother, Troy "Trombone Shorty" Andrews was just two years old when he first picked up the trombone and by the age of three was giving public concerts.

That royal blood is evident each and every time James takes the stage, whether it be with the New Birth or Treme Brass Band, with whom he also performs. James’ show is always charming, always witty, and always delivered with that street world cool. He can get the crowd to clap their hands, stand up and dance, or sing along with a single command. And it’s an infectious scene when the band itself gets to swinging from side to side ~ I just love to see these men joyfully movin’ to their own groovin’!

All in all the New Birth puts on a hot swinging show visually and musically. You can’t help but undulate, arms overhead to "Caribbean Second Line" and you gotta love their darkly comedic rendition of "St. James Infirmary." ("I went down to St. James Infirmary/I saw my baby lyin’ there (Without no drawers on!)" ....

YouTube: "Caribean Second Line",
New Birth Brass Band, from the album "D-Boy"

The cover is cheap at Café Brasil, just two measly dollars. The beers and mixed drinks are priced locally so if you’re looking for a cheap but fun night, New Birth is your ticket... .

But you say you aren’t quite ready to call it a night? Feeling really courageous, wanting to assert your toughness, eh? Awright then, walk down the street a few blocks with me to The Dragon’s Den, where the ReBirth Brass Band are tearing the roof off the motha as we speak!!!

The Dragon’s Den has got to be one of the coolest clubs in all of New Orleans. Located on a border street of the French Quarter (on the last block of Esplanade, near the Fire Station, across from the Old U.S. Mint), this tiny upstairs club is at turns both funky and elegant, classic and bordello~esque. Entering from the street, you walk down a narrow Middle Ages~type alley and up a cramped curved staircase. At the top, standing at the red door with a beatific golden dragon painted on it you will be greeted by the ReBirth’s good~time door people, Miss Charlene and Miss Sandra Frazier. Miss Sandra (ReBirth’s Philip and Keith’s sister) is always decked out in the latest hot styles but her most attractive quality is her beautiful big smile and warm personality ~ that’s the one you give your $5 to. Then let the demure Miss Charlene stamp your hand. You never had so much fun paying to get inside a club, I promise!

I just love a joint with red walls and gold~framed mirrors ~ it makes me think of Jelly Roll Morton's gigs in Storyville... Indeed, get an eyeful of the gorgeous red~haired woman in charge, Miss Katherine O’Connor, whose reputation amongst the musicians that play there is sterling. (All that beauty and brains and talent too! Miss Katherine also hosts her own Tuesday night acoustic jam at Checkpoint Charlie’s, just a stone’s throw away from the Dragon’s Den, also on Esplanade). And the lovely Miss Indigo (who is always clad in kinky vogue style) is there to serve you fine Vietnamese cuisine and your libation of choice ~ and these girls know how to pour a drink, I’m here to tell you!

By now the ReBirth has everyone jammed onto the tiny dance floor sweating, drinking, eyes closed in ecstasy at the funky sounds the band is laying down. It’s down right steamy at the Dragon’s Den and you often find yourself looking up to see if the roof is being blown off into the New Orleans night. Anyone who thinks they can wear any kind of sleeves to a ReBirth gig ~ no matter the temperature outside ~ is a masochist. If you wear a sweater to this place I guarantee it’ll be trash in the morning.

The fun thing is, the later it gets the more interesting the people get. You get a lot of musicians coming off their gigs to see the ReBirth ~ all brass and jazz musicians are admitted free, insuring that you’re going to see a lot of the city’s best horn men in the audience. But do they ever get up and jam? Hell no! None of them have the cajones to even try to roll with the ReBirth, even their alumni. They are there to compare the crowd with the one they had that night and trying to scope just what it is the ReBirth does to be so freakin’ mighty. Which, incidentally led to ReBirth’s smash hit ~ "U Been Watchin’ Me" ~ off their brand new record "We Come To Party." You may notice that I mention ReBirth often in my columns ~ I’m telling you, they are worth every bit of space I give them. No one is mightier, funkier, or more for real than ReBirth! Accept no substitute!

YouTube: "U Been Watchin’ Me",
ReBirth Brass Band, from the album "We Come To Party"

If you’re really hardcore, after all of that brass and jazz you can always head down to the aforementioned Checkpoint Charlie’s. This weird bar ~ which also features pool tables, a classic rock/heavy metal/alternative jukebox and a laundromat ~ keeps the grill going 24 hours. They serve up some of the best french fries in town!! If it’s before 2 am you can always go to Coop’s Place and get a decent meal and friendly service ~ try the Pasta Guadalajara or the Ernie Special!

Never my darlings, party this hard without refueling yourself from time to time. The key to partying in New Orleans is pacing yourself. This city hops 24/7/365 so you never need to be in so much of a hurry to do and see everything that you can’t stop and take time to replenish yourself... . As my friend Leslie always says, "Eat a good breakfast, stay warm, and don’t forget to feed your soul!"

Til next time, Peace!

Eulalie


Musicians and club owners lead complicated lives subject to abrupt changes -- please contact venues to confirm current performers.


This article originally appeared at ikoiko.com on 05/01/1997.

© Copyright www.ikoiko.com